Think of it as your personal guide to Standard Poodles — available any time of day or night.

💬 What the Chatbot Can Do

Our chatbot, called Poodle Guide, was designed to make your journey with poodles easier and more enjoyable. Here’s how it helps:

• ✅ Answers common poodle questions — from grooming to training basics.

• ✅ Explains health testing and standards — using trusted sources like the OFA, Poodle Club of America, United Poodle Association, and VIPoodle.

• ✅ Shares stories and checklists — quick tips you can use right away.

• ✅ Points you to the right resources — like our buyers’ Puppy Guide or website sections.

🐾 Why We Built It

Caring for a Standard Poodle is rewarding, but it also comes with lots of questions along the way. The chatbot makes it easy to get:

• Immediate guidance when you need it.

• Friendly, story-driven explanations — not just technical answers.

• Reassurance that you’re not alone as you navigate life with your poodle.

It’s not meant to replace the personal relationship we build with families, but to be an extra layer of support between emails, phone calls, and visits.

🌐 How to Try It

• Visit standardpoodlesofforestlakes.com

• Look for the chat bubble in the lower right corner of your screen (desktop or mobile).

• Tap it, ask your question, and start chatting with Poodle Guide!

We’re proud to be one of the first breeders to offer this kind of resource. It reflects our philosophy: education, support, and community first.

👉 Have you tried it yet? Give it a go and let us know what you think — we’d love your feedback!

What We Focus on as Breeders – and Why It Matters

Breeding is far more than pairing two dogs and hoping for a great outcome. Ethical, preservation breeders know that every decision today will shape the breed’s future for decades to come. The focus of any breeding program is often influenced by what each dog brings to the table—its strengths, weaknesses, and potential. The goal is to preserve and improve the breed, not just produce puppies.

Type vs. Style – Knowing the Difference

In dog breeding, type is the set of essential features that define a breed—those traits that, when you see the dog, make you instantly recognize it as that breed. In Standard Poodles, this includes correct proportions, head shape, movement, coat texture, and temperament according to the breed standard.

Style, on the other hand, is a personal or regional interpretation of that type. For example, two dogs can both be correct in type, but one may have a more refined outline while another is more robust. Style is what gives variety within type, but it must never override breed-defining traits. Breeders must be vigilant not to let style drift into breeding away from correct type.

Pedigree Research, COI, and Genetic Diversity

A thoughtful breeder studies pedigrees deeply—generations back—looking at the dogs who came before and the traits they consistently pass on.

The Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI) is a measure of how closely related the sire and dam are. While some level of linebreeding can set desirable traits, a consistently high COI can reduce genetic diversity, increasing the risk of inherited health issues.

Tools like BetterBred and the Canine Genetic Diversity Project help breeders evaluate not only COI but also how genetically similar or different two dogs are at the DNA level. This allows breeders to make more informed decisions to maintain genetic health while preserving type.

Health Testing as a Breeding Foundation

No breeding decision should be made without comprehensive health testing for conditions known to affect the breed. For Standard Poodles, this includes hips, eyes, thyroid, heart, sebaceous adenitis, and various DNA tests for inherited diseases. Health testing:

• Reduces the risk of producing affected puppies
• Protects the reputation of the breeder and the breed
• Preserves the trust of puppy owners

Skipping health testing isn’t saving money—it’s gambling with lives.

The Wholistic Preservation Breeder

A wholistic (or holistic) preservation breeder looks at the whole dog—not just one or two traits in isolation. They consider:

• Breed type and adherence to the standard
• Health testing results
• Temperament and trainability
• Pedigree depth and genetic diversity
• Structure and movement
• The long-term impact of their choices on the breed

They are not breeding for a fad, a quick sale, or what’s easiest. They are thinking in decades, not litters.

Solving the Puzzle – Many Strategic Moves over Generations

Every breeding is a puzzle, and no two pairings are exactly the same. While the foundation—health-tested, cleared parents with stable, sound temperaments—remains non-negotiable, the goals for each litter can vary greatly.

For example, in one pairing, a breeder might be working to eliminate an undesirable trait. That could mean seeking a mate with very different genetics, pedigree, or style to help dilute or remove that feature from the line. These are often more diverse pairings, bringing in new influences to improve the overall balance without losing type or function.

In another pairing, the goal may be to lock in an exceptional feature—perhaps a beautiful head, ideal movement, or outstanding front assembly. In those cases, the breeder may look for a mate with a similar strength and consistent pedigree behind it. These strong type pairings can help cement desired qualities so they’re more likely to appear in future generations.

The pieces are different for each pairing, but still need to fit together for the desired outcomes. Thoughtful breeding is never a “cookie cutter” formula—it’s a tailored strategy where every match is made with a purpose, always balancing the preservation of the breed standard with the unique needs of that specific line.

Breeding Away from the Standard – Why It Harms the Breed

Some breeders choose to breed “off standard” to appeal to a specific market—producing dogs for uncommon colors, exaggerated sizes (larger or smaller), or exaggerated angles because “that’s what sells.” This is not preservation breeding. It often involves:

• Ignoring the breed standard’s requirements for structure and temperament
• Overlooking health or genetic diversity
• Selecting solely for market trends rather than breed integrity

While these breeders may claim they’re “just giving people what they want,” the reality is that every litter bred away from the standard chips away at what makes the breed unique. Over time, this erodes both the physical and behavioral qualities that preservation breeders work so hard to protect.

In short: Ethical breeders focus on health, type, and temperament first—using science, history, and a deep love for the breed as their guide. Every dog we breed should be a worthy representative of its heritage, ensuring that the next generation is not just healthy and sound, but unmistakably the breed it was meant to be.

Breeders who Show their Dogs

Breeders show their dogs to have them evaluated against the breed standard by impartial judges. This isn’t just about winning ribbons—it’s about proving that the dog meets the structural, movement, and temperament requirements the breed was created for.

Using UKC Grand Champions and AKC Champions in a breeding program means those dogs have consistently beaten other quality dogs under multiple judges, demonstrating they are correct in type, sound in structure, and possess the proper temperament. Titles also show that the dog has the stamina, trainability, and presence to excel in the ring—traits worth preserving for future generations.

Campaigning a Dog

To campaign a dog means to actively show it in competitions—often over an extended period and in multiple locations—with the goal of earning high-level titles, rankings, or national recognition.

Campaigning usually involves:

• Entering many shows, sometimes across states or regions

• Working with a professional handler (in AKC, especially) or showing the dog yourself

• Traveling extensively

• Investing time and money in grooming, entry fees, and travel costs

It’s a strategic effort to showcase the dog’s quality to the breed community, prove its consistency in competition, and strengthen its reputation (and that of the breeding program) for future breeding plans.

Why purchase from Holistic Preservation Breeders

People should seek a puppy from holistic preservation breeders who show their dogs because those breeders are proving—in public, under expert judges—that their dogs meet the breed standard in structure, movement, and temperament.

A show title isn’t just a ribbon—it’s proof the dog is a healthy, correct representative of its breed. Pair that with full health testing, stable temperaments, and thoughtful pedigree planning, and you’re getting a puppy whose parents were chosen to improve the breed, not just produce puppies.

And if you’re thinking, “I don’t want a show dog, I just want a pet,” here’s the secret: the very same qualities that make a dog a great show dog—sound structure, balanced temperament, and good health—are exactly what make them exceptional companions.

Holistic preservation breeders think in decades, not litters—balancing health, type, temperament, and genetic diversity so your puppy isn’t just beautiful, but healthy, stable, and true to its heritage.

And why “more” isn’t always better

You might notice that some Poodles in the show ring have long, sweeping hind legs that look dramatic or stylish when they’re stacked or moving. At first glance, it can seem impressive—but this extreme look, called overangulation, can actually cause problems.

🐩 What Is “Overangulation” Anyway?

Poodles should have a nice balance between their front legs and back legs. When a dog is overangulated, the bones in the back legs are angled too sharply. This makes the rear look longer or more stretched out behind the dog, especially when standing.

It’s like giving the dog high-performance springs in the back—but not enough support in the front to match.

❌ Why That’s a Bad Thing

1. ⚖️ It Throws Off Balance

Dogs need their front and back to work together like a team. When the rear legs are “too much,” it throws the body off balance. The dog may move in a way that looks fancy, but it isn’t smooth or efficient—and it can wear down the body over time.

2. 🚷 It Affects the Way They Move

Overangulated dogs often have trouble moving in a straight line. They may:

• Wobble or twist when walking
• Seem bouncy or choppy instead of smooth
• Trot awkwardly or wear out quickly

This isn’t just about looks—good movement means the dog can walk, run, and play with less risk of injury.

3. 🐾 It Can Be Uncomfortable or Even Painful

Too much angle in the back legs puts strain on the joints and muscles. Over time, this can cause:

• Arthritis
• Hip and knee problems
• Muscle soreness or injuries

That’s especially concerning for active dogs who love to run, hike, or compete in sports.

4. 🐶 Even Puppies Are Affected

Puppies with too much rear angulation often have trouble sitting square or standing up straight. They might seem wobbly or weak in the back end. These are early signs that their structure is off—and it usually gets worse, not better, as they grow.

🧬 But Aren’t Show Dogs Supposed to Look Fancy?

Yes, but “fancy” doesn’t mean exaggerated. The official standard for Poodles says their rear should be well-angled—but in balance with the front.

Overangulated rears are becoming more common in some show lines because they look flashy and may even be rewarded in the ring. But in the long run, they don’t hold up well—and they don’t reflect what the breed was meant to be: a strong, athletic, versatile dog.

✅ What You Want to See Instead

• Balanced structure: Front and back legs that match in length and angle
• Smooth movement: A dog that trots with ease, without bouncing or wobbling
• Strong and sturdy: A rear end that supports healthy hips and joints for life
• Comfortable puppies: Sitting and standing naturally, no wobbles or weird postures

❤️ Why It Matters

Whether your Poodle is a show dog, a sports partner, or a beloved family pet—structure matters. A well-built dog is:

• Less likely to get injured
• More likely to stay active into old age
• Happier and more comfortable in daily life

So next time someone says, “Look at those long legs!”—remember: flashy isn’t always functional.

Both dog collars and harnesses can cause injuries if not used properly, but wide collars and harnesses generally distribute pressure more evenly across more area and reduce the risk of injuries. Collars can lead to neck strain, trachea damage, and other issues if a dog pulls on the leash. Harnesses, especially those that attach at the back, can encourage pulling and potentially cause musculoskeletal issues if not fitted correctly.

Collar Injuries:

Neck Injuries:  Collars can cause neck strain, trachea damage, and even fractured vertebrae, especially when dogs pull on the leash.

Eye and Ear Problems:  Jerking the leash can restrict blood flow to the eyes and ears, potentially causing swelling and long-term damage.

Nerve Damage:  Collars can damage nerves in the front legs, causing tingling or paw licking.

Strangulation Hazards:  Loose collars can get caught on objects or legs, leading to strangulation.

Harness Injuries:

Shoulder and Joint Issues:  Ill-fitting harnesses can restrict movement, cause shoulder pain, arthritis, and affect gait.

Increased Pulling:  Back-clip harnesses may encourage pulling, especially in dogs not accustomed to loose-leash walking.

Discomfort and Restricted Movement:  Poorly fitted harnesses can cause chafing, pressure on the chest cavity, and restrict natural movement.

Choosing the Right Equipment:

Collars:

Collars are great for holding ID tags and are suitable for dogs that walk politely on leash. Consider using a breakaway collar for added safety, especially during off-leash play or crating.

Harnesses:

For dogs that pull or are still learning leash manners, a well-fitted harness can reduce pressure on the neck and offer better control. A harness should be properly fitted to avoid pressure points and allow for a full range of motion. Back-clip harnesses may not be ideal for all dogs and can encourage pulling.

Training:

Positive reinforcement and leash training are essential, regardless of whether a collar or harness is used.

Recommendations:

• Consult with a veterinarian or professional dog trainer: to determine the best walking equipment for your dog’s individual needs.
• Prioritize loose-leash walking: to prevent pulling and potential injury, regardless of the equipment used.
• Ensure proper fit and adjustability: when using either a collar or harness to prevent discomfort and injury.

Dog Harnesses

Fitting a harness properly on your dog is crucial for their comfort, safety, and to prevent injury. A well-fitted harness will distribute pressure evenly, preventing strain on their neck and throat, and reduce the likelihood of them wiggling out.

Before You Start (What You’ll Need):

• The Harness: Ensure you have the correct size range for your dog. Most harnesses have sizing charts based on chest girth and neck dog.
• Treats: To make the experience positive for your dog.
• A Relaxed Dog: Choose a time when your dog is calm and not overly excited.

Step-by-Step Guide (these steps generally apply to most dog harnesses, but specifics might vary slightly by harness type):

1. Measure Your Dog (If You Haven’t Already):
   • Neck Circumference: Measure around the widest part of your dog’s neck, where their collar would naturally sit.
   • Chest Girth: This is the most critical measurement. Measure around the broadest part of your dog’s rib cage, just behind their front legs.
   • Back Length (Optional but helpful for some harnesses): Measure from the base of their neck to the base of their tail.
   • Compare these measurements to the harness manufacturer’s sizing chart. When in doubt, go for the larger size within a range if your dog is between sizes, as most harnesses are adjustable.
2. Orient the Harness:
   • Lay the harness out flat to identify the top, bottom, front, and back. Most harnesses will have a D-ring for leash attachment on the back (top) and buckles or clips on the sides or chest.
   • Identify the neck opening and the chest strap.
3. Put the Harness On:
   • Over the Head: Gently slip the neck opening of the harness over your dog’s head. Make sure the D-ring (where the leash attaches) is positioned on their back, between their shoulder blades.
   • Front Legs Through (if applicable): For some step-in or H-style harnesses, you might need to guide one or both front paws through designated leg loops. For Y-shaped or front-clip harnesses, the strap will go between their front legs.
   • Secure the Straps: Bring the remaining straps around your dog’s chest and/or belly and fasten the buckles or clips. You should hear a clear click if it’s a buckle.
4. Adjust the Straps (The “Two-Finger Rule”):
   • Neck Strap: The neck strap should sit comfortably at the base of your dog’s neck, similar to a collar. You should be able to comfortably slide two finger widths between the strap and your dog’s neck. If you can fit more, it’s too loose; if you struggle to fit two, it’s too tight.
   • Chest Strap (Girth Strap): This strap goes around your dog’s rib cage, just behind their front legs. Again, apply the two-finger rule. Ensure it’s snug but not constricting. It’s crucial that this strap is far enough back from the armpits to prevent chafing and rubbing, especially for active dogs. Aim for at least two fingers’ width behind the armpits.
   • Front Chest Strap (if applicable): For Y-shaped or front-clip harnesses, there will be a strap that runs down the front of your dog’s chest, connecting the neck and girth straps. This should lie flat and centered. Adjust it so it doesn’t pull into their throat or restrict shoulder movement.
5. Check for Movement and Comfort:
   • No Gaps: There should be no large gaps anywhere that your dog could slip out of.
   • Freedom of Movement: Your dog should be able to walk, run, and move their legs freely without the harness impeding their natural gait. Watch for any rubbing, especially in the armpit area.
   • No Chafing: The straps should not rub or irritate their skin, particularly behind the front legs.
   • Centered: The harness should remain relatively centered on your dog’s body as they move.

Test It Out:

• Take your dog for a short walk around the house or in the yard with the harness on.
• Observe how they move and react. Look for any signs of discomfort, rubbing, or if they are able to back out of the harness.
• Reward them with treats and praise for wearing the harness calmly.

Signs of a Poorly Fitted Harness:

• Chafing or Redness: Especially under the armpits or around the neck.
• Restricted Movement: Your dog seems to walk stiffly, hunches, or has an altered gait.
• Gagging or Coughing: If the neck strap is too tight or rides up.
• Rubbing of Hair: Excessive rubbing or matting of fur where the harness sits.
• Slipping Out: Your dog can back out of the harness or easily pull a leg out.
• Snagging: The harness material or buckles catch on their fur.

Maintenance:

• Regular Checks: Re-check the harness fit regularly, especially for growing puppies or if your dog’s weight changes.
• Cleanliness: Keep the harness clean to prevent skin irritation.

By following these steps, you can ensure your dog is comfortable and secure in their harness, making walks and training sessions more enjoyable and safer for both of you.

Click the image above to read more about leashes, harnesses and dangers associated with them by Dr. Peter Dobias, DVM.

Choosing the Right Harness for a Standard Poodle

Why structure matters—and how to fit it correctly

Not all dogs are built the same, and Standard Poodles have a unique combination of features that make choosing the right harness especially important. From their deep chest and narrow waist to their long neck and curly coat, the wrong harness can interfere with movement, mat the coat, or even create long-term orthopedic issues.

Why Harness Fit Matters for Poodles

Conformation Considerations

Standard Poodles are a well-balanced, square breed with:

• A deep brisket (chest)
• High withers
• Long, arched neck
• Tight tuck-up (waist)
• Level topline and athletic build

Many generic harnesses do not account for this structure. A poorly designed or ill-fitting harness can:

• Rub against the shoulders or elbows, limiting range of motion
• Sit too low or high on the chest, affecting gait or breathing
• Pull unevenly, leading to poor posture over time
• Cause coat breakage or matting under the arms or along the spine

Choosing the Right Harness Style for Your Dog

Look for a harness that offers these features:

• Allows full shoulder extension
• Adjustable at multiple points (neck, chest, girth)
• Keeps pressure off the trachea
• Evenly distributes tension across the chest

⚠️ Avoid:

• “Easy step-in” harnesses – often rub the armpits and restrict leg movement
• Harnesses with horizontal chest straps – can limit reach and alter gait
• Head halters or overly restrictive models for young or sensitive dogs without proper introduction

This Y-style harness allows the dog full range of motion.

This “no-pull” style harness restricts the dog’s range of motion.

This “step-in” style harness restricts the dog’s range of motion.

How to Properly Fit and Use a Harness

Step 1: Adjust for Coat

If your Poodle is in full coat or a longer pet trim, adjust the harness to allow room without slippage. Always remove tangles and brush the coat beneath the straps to avoid matting.

Step 2: Position the Harness

• The front chest strap (in Y-harnesses) should sit above the point of the shoulder and rest along the prosternum—not across the throat.
• The girth strap should lie behind the elbow, not digging into it.
• The neck or shoulder straps should sit snugly but not press into the base of the neck.

If coat compression is creating hot spots or matting, a short sanitary trim beneath the straps may help.

Step 3: Check Fit

• You should be able to slide two fingers between the harness and the dog at all points.
• There should be no gaping or shifting when the dog moves.
• The harness should not restrict the dog’s natural gait at a walk or trot.

Training Tip:

If using a front-clip harness to reduce pulling, be sure to also train loose leash skills. Equipment should assist—not replace—positive reinforcement training.

Ideal Use Scenarios

Harnesses are great for:

• Puppies learning to walk on leash
• Adult dogs with sensitive necks
• Car safety (with a seatbelt tether)
• Active outings like hiking or travel

For show dogs or dogs in coat, rotate between flat collars and harnesses to minimize coat wear.

Harness Fit & Safety Checklist

Use this checklist every time you fit or adjust your puppy’s harness.

Proper Fit

• Two fingers fit snugly under all straps
• Harness does not press on the throat or neck
• Girth strap rests behind the elbows, not on top of them
• Front strap lies flat across the sternum, not the shoulders
• Harness stays centered and balanced—doesn’t twist or shift
• Puppy can move freely at a walk and trot
• Puppy is comfortable being harnessed

Coat & Skin Check

• No matting or tangles under straps
• No rubbing or hair breakage at contact points
• No red spots, irritation, or sores under armpits or chest
• Coat brushed out under harness after each use (especially in longer trims)

Safety Watchouts

• Harness is secure—puppy cannot back out or wiggle free
• No slipping when leash pressure is applied
• Puppy is not trying to bite, roll, or escape the harness
• Puppy shows no signs of stress or fear related to wearing it

Behavioral Green Flags

• Puppy is eager to go for walks and doesn’t avoid the harness
• No sudden changes in stride, posture, or pace when harnessed
• No signs of resistance (balking, stiffening, flattening ears) during harnessing

Tip: Check fit weekly—especially for growing puppies! A harness that fit last month may now be too tight or restrictive.

Choosing the right harness for your Standard Poodle is about more than convenience—it’s about honoring their structure, movement, and comfort. A well-fitted, appropriate harness supports healthy development, protects the coat, and makes daily walks more enjoyable and secure.

Insights from Dr. Michelle Kutzler’s Presentation on Long-Term Health After Spay/Neuter (Gonadectomy)

https://www.akc.org/akc-educated-breeder-webinar-series/

Many well-meaning dog owners opt to spay or neuter early, often encouraged by tradition or shelter policies. But emerging research—including work shared by Dr. Michelle Kutzler, a leading expert in theriogenology—invites us to revisit these decisions with long-term health in mind.

Here are a few takeaways:

Spaying and neutering may carry long-term risks when done without considering age, breed, and individual health. According to Dr. Kutzler, altered dogs show higher rates of issues like:

• Obesity
• Urinary tract problems
• Skin disorders
• Musculoskeletal challenges
• Behavioral changes
• Certain cancers

Why does this happen?

The removal of reproductive organs disrupts a key hormonal feedback system between the brain and gonads (called the hypothalamic-pituitary-gonadal axis). Without the ovaries or testicles providing feedback, levels of luteinizing hormone (LH) can become up to 30 times higher—a biological state we’re only beginning to understand fully.

What Is the Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal Axis?

And why it matters to your dog’s health and development

The HPG axis is a communication system between three major parts of the body:

1. Hypothalamus (in the brain)
2. Pituitary gland (also in the brain, just below the hypothalamus)
3. Gonads (testes in males, ovaries in females)

Together, this system controls sexual development, hormone production, and fertility—but it also plays a role in growth, behavior, immune function, bone density, and even cancer risk.

How It Works (Simplified)

Think of it like a hormone relay team:

1. The hypothalamus starts the process by releasing a hormone called GnRH (gonadotropin-releasing hormone).
2. GnRH tells the pituitary gland to release two more hormones:
   • LH (luteinizing hormone)
   • FSH (follicle-stimulating hormone)
3. LH and FSH travel through the bloodstream to the gonads, which then produce sex hormones:
   • Testosterone in males
   • Estrogen and progesterone in females

These hormones are responsible for:

• Sexual maturity and reproductive cycles
• Sperm and egg production
• Heat cycles and pregnancy
• Influencing behavior, metabolism, and growth

The HPG axis also works on a feedback loop. If there’s too much or too little hormone, the brain adjusts production to keep things in balance.

Why the HPG Axis Is So Important

• It regulates puberty – Controls when dogs reach sexual maturity.
• It influences bone growth and closure – Removing the gonads (spay/neuter) too early can delay growth plate closure, increasing injury risk.
• It affects brain development and behavior – Sex hormones interact with brain regions that manage fear, aggression, and learning.
• It supports immune health and cancer resistance – Hormones from the gonads help regulate immune system and cell repair.
• It maintains endocrine balance – Disruptions in the axis (like early gonadectomy) can lead to long-term hormonal imbalances.

Understanding LH Receptors and the Broader Impact of Spay/Neuter Decisions

Emerging research is shedding light on the presence of luteinizing hormone (LH) receptors beyond the reproductive system—including in the urinary tract, bones, adrenal glands, skin, and blood vessels. When LH binds to these receptors, it can trigger cell division and impact nitric oxide production, potentially influencing various body systems.

One of the key findings is that spaying and neutering may contribute significantly to obesity in dogs, primarily through two mechanisms: a decrease in metabolic rate due to reduced muscle mass, and a 20% increase in food intake driven by reduced satiety.

A notable concern involves the prevalence of urinary incontinence in spayed females. Spayed dogs experiencing incontinence tend to have higher LH receptor concentrations in their urinary tract, and some treatments aimed at lowering LH levels (like estrogen therapy or GnRH manipulation) have shown promise in restoring continence.

Additionally, large-scale veterinary data suggests urinary stones are three times more common in altered dogs, and roughly 20% of spayed bitches may develop coat changes, often resembling a soft, “puppy-like” texture due to hormonal shifts affecting the hair cycle.

The Hidden Orthopedic Costs of Spaying and Neutering

Recent research is shedding light on the long-term orthopedic consequences of early spay/neuter in dogs. Two key conditions—cruciate ligament rupture and hip dysplasia—are shown to be significantly more common in altered dogs, even when adjusting for factors like obesity or age.

🔹 Cruciate Ligament Rupture (CCL)
While many dogs are born with normal stifle joints, altered hormone levels post spay/neuter may increase laxity in the ligaments. In fact, one study of over 500 dogs found zero cases of CCL in intact dogs, suggesting a strong link. Just like in humans, reproductive hormones appear to influence ligament stability.

🔹 Hip Dysplasia

This condition involves joint laxity and misalignment of the hip socket and femur, eventually leading to arthritis. Spayed and neutered dogs are 1.5 to 2 times more likely to develop hip dysplasia compared to intact dogs. The lack of sex hormones—and the resulting rise in LH (luteinizing hormone) receptor activity—may disrupt normal joint development and maintenance.

Hormones, Behavior & Brain Health: The Role of LH After Spay/Neuter

When we think of hormones, we often focus on reproduction—but hormones like luteinizing hormone (LH) impact far more than fertility. LH receptors are found in the hippocampus and hypothalamus, two areas of the brain deeply involved in behavior, memory, and emotional regulation.

Behavioral Shifts After Spay/Neuter

After gonadectomy (removal of ovaries or testicles), LH levels remain persistently elevated. This can impact a dog’s behavior in multiple ways:

• Increased fear responses (storms, noises, separation)
• Heightened anxiety and timidity
• Owner- and stranger-directed aggression
• Submissive urination and stress illness
• Spayed females are up to twice as likely to show aggression compared to intact females—especially if already showing early behavioral concerns before surgery

While neutering may reduce inter-male aggression, the net effect on behavior is complex, and not always positive.

A Note on Treatment

Interestingly, Suprelorin (a GnRH agonist that suppresses LH production) has been shown to reduce anxiety and fear in neutered dogs—further confirming LH’s role in behavioral regulation.

LH and Cognitive Decline in Dogs (and Humans)

In aging dogs, elevated LH levels are linked to Canine Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS)—a neurodegenerative disorder with symptoms similar to Alzheimer’s disease in people. These may include:

• Memory loss and confusion
• Night-waking or reversed sleep cycles
• Social disconnection
• Difficulty learning new things

Dogs who are spayed or neutered are at higher risk for both earlier onset and more rapid progression of CDS.

And this isn’t limited to canines. In humans, studies show that high circulating LH is associated with declines in cognitive performance and increased beta-amyloid plaque formation—a hallmark of Alzheimer’s disease.

LH and Cancer Risk in Dogs

Luteinizing hormone (LH) has been shown to influence the development of certain cancers in dogs, particularly through its interaction with hormone receptors. Mast cell tumors (mastocytomas)—the most common skin tumor in dogs—express high levels of LH receptors. Research indicates that spayed and neutered dogs are at higher risk for these tumors, especially in breeds such as Golden Retrievers, Vizslas, and large or giant breeds.

Hemangiosarcoma, an aggressive cancer arising from the lining of blood vessels (commonly affecting the skin, spleen, and heart), also exhibits functional LH receptors in vascular and smooth muscle tissues. This suggests a possible hormonal influence on its growth and spread.

Lymphoma, which accounts for up to 24% of all canine cancers, is significantly more prevalent in altered dogs—particularly neutered males, who are up to three times more likely to develop the disease. Studies show that 10–45% of cultured T-cell lymphomas express LH receptors, which are functional and may promote cancer cell survival and vascular invasion—increasing the cancer’s ability to spread throughout the body.

Beyond Reproduction: The Hormonal Role of Ovaries and Testicles

Ovaries and testicles are not just for reproduction—they are critical endocrine glands that support metabolism, musculoskeletal development, behavior regulation, and cancer resistance. Removing them eliminates important hormone-producing functions that impact overall health.

For some dogs, alternatives to traditional spay and neuter may be more appropriate. These options preserve hormonal balance while still preventing pregnancy:

• Vasectomy: The sperm-carrying tubes (vas deferens) are cut or sealed, leaving the testicles—and their hormone production—intact. This can be performed after the testicles descend or earlier using laparoscopy.
• Vasocclude® clips: A minimally invasive method involving a small scrotal puncture to block the vas deferens with a medical-grade clip.
• Hormonal downregulation: Medications like Deslorelin (Suprelorin®), a GnRH agonist, can temporarily suppress fertility in males without surgery.
• Hysterectomy (partial spay): In females, the uterus is removed while leaving the ovaries intact, preserving natural hormone production.

These options allow for better long-term hormonal health while still addressing reproductive control. Always discuss your dog’s lifestyle, health risks, and behavior with a knowledgeable veterinarian to determine the best approach.

Form Follows Function: Understanding the Why Behind the Structure – Part One

As breeders, exhibitors, and performance partners, we spend a lot of time looking at dogs. But how often do we pause to truly see them? Structure isn’t just about stacking a dog or memorizing a standard. It’s about understanding why our breeds are built the way they are. Form follows function—and if we want to breed dogs that move well, work soundly, and live long, healthy lives, we need to understand how form and function connect.

Stephanie Hedgepath’s “Form Follows Function” series in ShowSight Magazine is a masterclass in going beyond the surface. This first article sets the foundation, not by diving right into anatomy, but by reminding us of our responsibility: to preserve breed type and function. As she writes, “You cannot evaluate movement until you understand structure, and you cannot evaluate structure until you understand type.”

Type is more than just a silhouette—it’s the physical expression of a breed’s purpose. Whether retrieving, herding, guarding, or simply moving efficiently, every breed was designed with a job in mind. And when we breed, show, or judge dogs, we should be measuring their structure against that functional blueprint—not chasing trends or exaggerations.

Balance is a word that gets thrown around a lot, but here, it’s clearly defined. A balanced dog is one whose parts—front and rear angles, topline and underline, head and neck—work in harmony. Balance isn’t just aesthetic; it’s essential for endurance and efficiency. An unbalanced dog may still move, but not without wasting energy or straining joints.

As breeders of purpose-bred dogs, this is our charge: to understand our breed’s history, to protect its future, and to evaluate structure not just for the ring, but for the real-life work our dogs were built to do.

This first article lays the philosophical groundwork for the deep-dive that follows. It’s a call to curiosity, humility, and intention. Our dogs deserve nothing less.

Form Follows Function – Part Two: The Canine Skeleton – the Blueprint Beneath the Breed

If form follows function, then the skeleton is the blueprint. In Part Two, Hedgepath takes us beneath the coat and into the foundational framework of every breed: bone. Every dog, regardless of type or size, has the same basic skeletal structure. But it’s the length of the bones and the angles of the joints that create breed-specific silhouettes—and functional differences.

Understanding the canine skeleton is essential to interpreting structure. Long bones (like the humerus and femur) give leverage for movement. Short bones (like those in the carpus and tarsus) absorb shock and provide stability. Flat bones protect vital organs. And all bones serve as attachment points for the muscles and ligaments that move our dogs forward.

Hedgepath explains joint types with clarity: ball-and-socket joints (shoulder and hip) allow rotation, hinge joints (elbow and stifle) provide flexion and extension, and gliding joints (carpus, tarsus) offer limited, shock-absorbing motion. When we understand how these joints function, we can better recognize why certain angulations—too steep, too flat, too long, too short—lead to inefficiencies or even injury.

One of the most important takeaways is the front assembly’s role in weight distribution. Dogs carry about 60% of their body weight on their front end. That means the front structure—scapula, humerus, elbow, pasterns, and feet—must be both shock-absorbing and structurally sound. The angles and proportions here determine reach, impact absorption, and long-term soundness.

This part of the series is a reminder that good structure isn’t cosmetic. It’s the product of precise skeletal architecture. As breeders, when we assess a young puppy or a promising show dog, we should be asking: does this dog have the bone and balance to do the job it was bred for?

Because under every coat—whether curly, wiry, smooth, or double—is a blueprint. The job of a preservation breeder is to understand it, respect it, and protect it.

Form Follows Function – Part Three: Hindquarters, Head, Neck & Spine

In Part Three, Hedgepath shifts focus to the rear—the engine of propulsion—and the spinal column that connects it all. This section reminds us that movement starts in the rear, is stabilized by the spine, and is directed by the head and neck. When these pieces are structurally sound and properly balanced, efficient, effortless movement is possible.

The pelvis is angled to allow powerful thrust from the rear. Ideally, the femur should be of equal length to the pelvis and meet at a 90-degree angle at the hip joint. The lower thigh (tibia and fibula) should equal or exceed the length of the upper thigh to maintain strength and flexibility through the hock. These proportions directly affect drive and follow-through.

Moving forward, the spine is more than a bridge between front and rear. The cervical vertebrae in the neck allow head carriage, flexibility, and shock absorption. The thoracic vertebrae support rib structure and provide the strength behind a well-developed topline. The lumbar and sacral vertebrae, especially where the pelvis anchors to the sacrum, are critical for propulsion. Each section plays a distinct role and should be assessed both visually and through touch.

The head—its shape, proportions, and function—matters just as much. Skull type (mesocephalic, dolichocephalic, or brachycephalic) isn’t just a visual cue. It reflects the breed’s original function, bite mechanics, and sensory needs. Jaw strength, dentition, and proportion between skull and muzzle can indicate a dog’s ability to perform its intended work.

Together, the hindquarters, spine, neck, and head create a functional continuum. They form the support system and steering mechanism for purposeful movement. When breeders understand how these systems interrelate, we’re better equipped to evaluate puppies, assess breeding stock, and advocate for soundness across the lifespan.

The beauty of structure isn’t just in stillness—it’s in the way it powers motion. And that starts from the rear and runs right through to the nose.

Form Follows Function – Part Four: Visual Assessment Techniques

Part Four brings us to the eyes and hands of the breeder and judge: visual assessment. Before we ever touch a dog, we use our trained eyes to evaluate balance, proportion, angulation, and overall harmony. This article breaks down how to look beyond the surface and assess structure in motion and at rest.

Stephanie Hedgepath reminds us that visual assessment is not guesswork; it’s a skill built on understanding anatomy and breed type. She walks us through key visual checkpoints: head set, neck length and carriage, shoulder slope, front and rear angulation, topline, croup, tail set, and foot placement. Each area tells a story about how the dog moves and functions.

Balance is front and center again—whether the dog’s front matches its rear in angulation and length. Is the topline level or does it dip? Does the dog move smoothly with a natural stride, or is there stiffness or awkwardness? The article also encourages breeders to watch dogs from multiple angles, noting how structure translates into real-world movement.

This step is critical before the hands-on exam. Visual cues guide where to focus palpation and what questions to ask about a dog’s soundness and potential. For preservation breeders like us, learning to read these visual signs early means better selection and stronger breeding decisions.

In your program, combine these visual checkpoints with your knowledge of breed history and function. This way, you’re not just seeing a pretty dog—you’re seeing a working athlete built for purpose.

Form Follows Function – Part Five: Hands-On Exam of the Front Assembly

Building on visual assessment, Part Five dives into the tactile side of structure evaluation—palpating the front assembly. The front end carries about 60% of a dog’s weight, so understanding what you feel under the coat is crucial for assessing soundness and function.

Stephanie Hedgepath guides us through feeling the scapula’s position and angle, the length and layback of the shoulder blade, and the upper arm’s length and attachment. These elements shape reach and shock absorption. Palpating the elbow joint reveals flexion and extension, as well as any signs of stress or arthritis.

You’ll learn to trace the foreleg down to the pasterns and feet, noting angulation and stability. The article stresses the importance of feeling for muscle tone, ligament integrity, and joint alignment to detect faults that may not be obvious visually.

For breeders focused on preservation, this hands-on work complements what you see in the stack and in movement. It helps you confirm or question your visual impressions and ensures you’re selecting dogs with sound, functional front ends.

Mastering front assembly palpation builds a foundation for the rear and full-body exams coming up next. With this skill, you’re better equipped to protect and promote the structure that supports healthy, balanced movement.

Form Follows Function – Part Six: Hands-On Exam of Chest, Topline, and Hindquarters

In this final hands-on chapter, Stephanie Hedgepath walks us through palpating the chest, topline, and rear assembly—key areas that influence strength, balance, and propulsion.

Start by feeling the rib spring, checking the curve and depth of the ribs from both sides. An ideal ribcage supports efficient breathing and endurance without being slab-sided or barrel-shaped. Next, move your hands along the spine from the withers through the thoracic and lumbar vertebrae, assessing muscle development and spinal alignment. A strong, smooth topline is essential for a sound, athletic dog.

Then focus on the croup and tailset by palpating the sacrum and pelvis. The pelvis should be well-angled to allow powerful rear drive. Feel the loin length and the ischial tuberosities (“pin bones”) to evaluate rear balance and strength. This tactile examination complements the visual assessment of rear angulation and tail carriage.

Together, these structures form the foundation for propulsion and balance in movement. As a preservation breeder, mastering this palpation helps you select dogs with the physical tools needed for longevity and function.

With Parts Five and Six complete, you’ve gained a full toolkit for evaluating structure by both sight and touch. The next step is applying this knowledge to movement and gait analysis—seeing form truly follow function in action.

Form Follows Function – Toes Up: The Foundation Beneath Every Step

Often overlooked, a dog’s feet and toes are the literal foundation of movement. Healthy, well-structured toes provide support, traction, and shock absorption—key factors in soundness and athleticism.

Dogs typically walk on four main toes per foot, each with three small bones that allow flexibility and grip. The dewclaws—vestigial fifth toes—vary by breed and function. Front dewclaws are often firmly attached to bone and help with stability; rear dewclaws may be looser and sometimes removed if they pose a risk.

Pads cushion each toe and the foot’s underside, made of dense connective tissue and fat covered by thick, protective skin. These pads absorb impact and help dogs adapt to varying terrain, whether slick floors or rugged trails.

Toenails also play a role in traction and balance. Keeping nails trimmed and healthy helps maintain proper foot positioning and prevents discomfort or gait alteration.

When evaluating structure, don’t forget to examine toes and feet by sight and touch. Look for symmetry, proper alignment, healthy pads, and secure dewclaws. Well-formed feet contribute to efficient, effortless movement—just as form should always follow function.

Form Follows Function: Questions Asked on Social Media

One of the most common messages I receive goes something like this:

“We’re looking for a puppy—do you have any available?”

or

“We’d love a cream male—do you have one right now?”

I completely understand the excitement of wanting to welcome a new puppy into your life. But here’s the truth: if you’re working with an ethical, preservation breeder, the process is going to look—and feel—very different from shopping for a pet online.

We Don’t Breed on Demand

At Standard Poodles of Forest Lakes, our dogs are our family. They live in our home, not in kennels. Every litter we plan is the result of years of research, health testing, evaluation, and observation—not to mention deep consideration of temperament, structure, and goals for the breed. Our litters are not frequent, and they are never rushed.

And just because a female reaches breeding age doesn’t mean we breed her right away. We wait until she is fully mature—physically and mentally—so that she can confidently raise and care for her puppies. That foundation gives each pup the best possible start in life.

It’s About the Right Match—Not Just Availability

When you bring home a puppy from us, you’re not just “buying a dog.” You’re becoming part of our extended family. And just like with any meaningful relationship, that takes time and mutual understanding. We’re committed to placing our puppies in homes where they’ll be loved and supported for a lifetime. That means getting to know you—your lifestyle, your goals, your expectations—and selecting the puppy who fits best.

We don’t let families pick based on color, size, or who was first in line. We match puppies based on personality, potential, and fit. We’ve spent every moment with these puppies from birth—we know them better than anyone.

Why Backyard Breeders Thrive (and Why You Shouldn’t Buy From Them)

Backyard breeders—and even some volume-focused kennels—thrive on impulse buyers: those looking for a specific color, those unwilling to wait, or those who may have already been told they’re not an ideal candidate for the breed. They breed for demand, not for the betterment of the breed. The result? Puppies that may lack stable temperaments, sound structure, and long-term health support.

You Have Two Choices: Ethical Breeder or Adoption

Let’s be honest: if you want a well-bred, purebred dog, there are only two responsible choices—work with a reputable, ethical breeder, or adopt. That’s it. And if you’re choosing to work with a preservation breeder, it’s not about filling an order—it’s about trusting the process.

Choose the Breeder, Not Just the Puppy

Every ethical breeder has different priorities—conformation, health, service potential, therapy aptitude, performance, or companionship. That’s why it’s so important to choose a breeder whose values align with yours. Before asking, “Do you have puppies available?” take the time to form a connection. Learn about the program. Share your hopes and plans for life with your future dog. Be willing to wait. Sometimes that wait is months—or longer—but it’s always worth it.

And in the end? You don’t “pick” your puppy. The breeder helps you meet the right one. The one who fits not just your wishlist, but your world.

Looking to start that journey with us?

We’d love to get to know you. Learn more about our program, our values, and our process here.

Dog Show Etiquette Cheat Sheet

Ring & Prep Area Etiquette

Be Ready & On Time – Arrive early and be at ringside before your class.

Keep It Clean – Pick up after your dog and yourself. Crates, grooming areas, and aisles should be tidy.

Respect the Stack – Don’t interrupt dogs being stacked or in training. Wait your turn.

Stay Alert – Know your armband number, class order, and listen for calls. Pay attention to the ring steward and/or judge’s instructions.

Respecting Handlers & Dogs

Ask Before Touching – Always ask before petting someone’s dog or entering grooming space.

Keep Distance – Don’t crowd other dogs in the ring or ring entrance. Not all dogs are social.

Celebrate Quietly – Be happy, but don’t gloat. Show grace in both winning and losing.

What Not to Do

Don’t coach from the sidelines during judging.

Don’t gossip, compare, or criticize others—especially juniors.

Don’t distract dogs in the ring (no squeaking toys or sudden movements).

Don’t correct or scold others’ dogs or children—bring concerns to a mentor or show official.

Social Etiquette

Use Kind Words – Compliment dogs and handlers sincerely.

Support, Don’t Undermine – Encourage, don’t compare.

🚶‍♀️‍➡️Avoid Drama – If there’s conflict, talk privately or walk away.

Don’t engage publicly.

Best Practices for a Great Experience

Thank judges, ring stewards, and club volunteers.

Offer to help juniors or new folks if you see them struggling.

Bring extras—water, slip leads, poop bags, snacks—and share if needed.

Focus on your dog and your growth. Every show is a learning opportunity.

How Victim Mentality Feeds Cancel Culture in the Dog World