And why “more” isn’t always better

You might notice that some Poodles in the show ring have long, sweeping hind legs that look dramatic or stylish when they’re stacked or moving. At first glance, it can seem impressive—but this extreme look, called overangulation, can actually cause problems.

🐩 What Is “Overangulation” Anyway?

Poodles should have a nice balance between their front legs and back legs. When a dog is overangulated, the bones in the back legs are angled too sharply. This makes the rear look longer or more stretched out behind the dog, especially when standing.

It’s like giving the dog high-performance springs in the back—but not enough support in the front to match.

❌ Why That’s a Bad Thing

1. ⚖️ It Throws Off Balance

Dogs need their front and back to work together like a team. When the rear legs are “too much,” it throws the body off balance. The dog may move in a way that looks fancy, but it isn’t smooth or efficient—and it can wear down the body over time.

2. 🚷 It Affects the Way They Move

Overangulated dogs often have trouble moving in a straight line. They may:

• Wobble or twist when walking
• Seem bouncy or choppy instead of smooth
• Trot awkwardly or wear out quickly

This isn’t just about looks—good movement means the dog can walk, run, and play with less risk of injury.

3. 🐾 It Can Be Uncomfortable or Even Painful

Too much angle in the back legs puts strain on the joints and muscles. Over time, this can cause:

• Arthritis
• Hip and knee problems
• Muscle soreness or injuries

That’s especially concerning for active dogs who love to run, hike, or compete in sports.

4. 🐶 Even Puppies Are Affected

Puppies with too much rear angulation often have trouble sitting square or standing up straight. They might seem wobbly or weak in the back end. These are early signs that their structure is off—and it usually gets worse, not better, as they grow.

🧬 But Aren’t Show Dogs Supposed to Look Fancy?

Yes, but “fancy” doesn’t mean exaggerated. The official standard for Poodles says their rear should be well-angled—but in balance with the front.

Overangulated rears are becoming more common in some show lines because they look flashy and may even be rewarded in the ring. But in the long run, they don’t hold up well—and they don’t reflect what the breed was meant to be: a strong, athletic, versatile dog.

✅ What You Want to See Instead

• Balanced structure: Front and back legs that match in length and angle
• Smooth movement: A dog that trots with ease, without bouncing or wobbling
• Strong and sturdy: A rear end that supports healthy hips and joints for life
• Comfortable puppies: Sitting and standing naturally, no wobbles or weird postures

❤️ Why It Matters

Whether your Poodle is a show dog, a sports partner, or a beloved family pet—structure matters. A well-built dog is:

• Less likely to get injured
• More likely to stay active into old age
• Happier and more comfortable in daily life

So next time someone says, “Look at those long legs!”—remember: flashy isn’t always functional.

Both dog collars and harnesses can cause injuries if not used properly, but wide collars and harnesses generally distribute pressure more evenly across more area and reduce the risk of injuries. Collars can lead to neck strain, trachea damage, and other issues if a dog pulls on the leash. Harnesses, especially those that attach at the back, can encourage pulling and potentially cause musculoskeletal issues if not fitted correctly.

Collar Injuries:

Neck Injuries:  Collars can cause neck strain, trachea damage, and even fractured vertebrae, especially when dogs pull on the leash.

Eye and Ear Problems:  Jerking the leash can restrict blood flow to the eyes and ears, potentially causing swelling and long-term damage.

Nerve Damage:  Collars can damage nerves in the front legs, causing tingling or paw licking.

Strangulation Hazards:  Loose collars can get caught on objects or legs, leading to strangulation.

Harness Injuries:

Shoulder and Joint Issues:  Ill-fitting harnesses can restrict movement, cause shoulder pain, arthritis, and affect gait.

Increased Pulling:  Back-clip harnesses may encourage pulling, especially in dogs not accustomed to loose-leash walking.

Discomfort and Restricted Movement:  Poorly fitted harnesses can cause chafing, pressure on the chest cavity, and restrict natural movement.

Choosing the Right Equipment:

Collars:

Collars are great for holding ID tags and are suitable for dogs that walk politely on leash. Consider using a breakaway collar for added safety, especially during off-leash play or crating.

Harnesses:

For dogs that pull or are still learning leash manners, a well-fitted harness can reduce pressure on the neck and offer better control. A harness should be properly fitted to avoid pressure points and allow for a full range of motion. Back-clip harnesses may not be ideal for all dogs and can encourage pulling.

Training:

Positive reinforcement and leash training are essential, regardless of whether a collar or harness is used.

Recommendations:

• Consult with a veterinarian or professional dog trainer: to determine the best walking equipment for your dog’s individual needs.
• Prioritize loose-leash walking: to prevent pulling and potential injury, regardless of the equipment used.
• Ensure proper fit and adjustability: when using either a collar or harness to prevent discomfort and injury.

Dog Harnesses

Fitting a harness properly on your dog is crucial for their comfort, safety, and to prevent injury. A well-fitted harness will distribute pressure evenly, preventing strain on their neck and throat, and reduce the likelihood of them wiggling out.

Before You Start (What You’ll Need):

• The Harness: Ensure you have the correct size range for your dog. Most harnesses have sizing charts based on chest girth and neck dog.
• Treats: To make the experience positive for your dog.
• A Relaxed Dog: Choose a time when your dog is calm and not overly excited.

Step-by-Step Guide (these steps generally apply to most dog harnesses, but specifics might vary slightly by harness type):

1. Measure Your Dog (If You Haven’t Already):
   • Neck Circumference: Measure around the widest part of your dog’s neck, where their collar would naturally sit.
   • Chest Girth: This is the most critical measurement. Measure around the broadest part of your dog’s rib cage, just behind their front legs.
   • Back Length (Optional but helpful for some harnesses): Measure from the base of their neck to the base of their tail.
   • Compare these measurements to the harness manufacturer’s sizing chart. When in doubt, go for the larger size within a range if your dog is between sizes, as most harnesses are adjustable.
2. Orient the Harness:
   • Lay the harness out flat to identify the top, bottom, front, and back. Most harnesses will have a D-ring for leash attachment on the back (top) and buckles or clips on the sides or chest.
   • Identify the neck opening and the chest strap.
3. Put the Harness On:
   • Over the Head: Gently slip the neck opening of the harness over your dog’s head. Make sure the D-ring (where the leash attaches) is positioned on their back, between their shoulder blades.
   • Front Legs Through (if applicable): For some step-in or H-style harnesses, you might need to guide one or both front paws through designated leg loops. For Y-shaped or front-clip harnesses, the strap will go between their front legs.
   • Secure the Straps: Bring the remaining straps around your dog’s chest and/or belly and fasten the buckles or clips. You should hear a clear click if it’s a buckle.
4. Adjust the Straps (The “Two-Finger Rule”):
   • Neck Strap: The neck strap should sit comfortably at the base of your dog’s neck, similar to a collar. You should be able to comfortably slide two finger widths between the strap and your dog’s neck. If you can fit more, it’s too loose; if you struggle to fit two, it’s too tight.
   • Chest Strap (Girth Strap): This strap goes around your dog’s rib cage, just behind their front legs. Again, apply the two-finger rule. Ensure it’s snug but not constricting. It’s crucial that this strap is far enough back from the armpits to prevent chafing and rubbing, especially for active dogs. Aim for at least two fingers’ width behind the armpits.
   • Front Chest Strap (if applicable): For Y-shaped or front-clip harnesses, there will be a strap that runs down the front of your dog’s chest, connecting the neck and girth straps. This should lie flat and centered. Adjust it so it doesn’t pull into their throat or restrict shoulder movement.
5. Check for Movement and Comfort:
   • No Gaps: There should be no large gaps anywhere that your dog could slip out of.
   • Freedom of Movement: Your dog should be able to walk, run, and move their legs freely without the harness impeding their natural gait. Watch for any rubbing, especially in the armpit area.
   • No Chafing: The straps should not rub or irritate their skin, particularly behind the front legs.
   • Centered: The harness should remain relatively centered on your dog’s body as they move.

Test It Out:

• Take your dog for a short walk around the house or in the yard with the harness on.
• Observe how they move and react. Look for any signs of discomfort, rubbing, or if they are able to back out of the harness.
• Reward them with treats and praise for wearing the harness calmly.

Signs of a Poorly Fitted Harness:

• Chafing or Redness: Especially under the armpits or around the neck.
• Restricted Movement: Your dog seems to walk stiffly, hunches, or has an altered gait.
• Gagging or Coughing: If the neck strap is too tight or rides up.
• Rubbing of Hair: Excessive rubbing or matting of fur where the harness sits.
• Slipping Out: Your dog can back out of the harness or easily pull a leg out.
• Snagging: The harness material or buckles catch on their fur.

Maintenance:

• Regular Checks: Re-check the harness fit regularly, especially for growing puppies or if your dog’s weight changes.
• Cleanliness: Keep the harness clean to prevent skin irritation.

By following these steps, you can ensure your dog is comfortable and secure in their harness, making walks and training sessions more enjoyable and safer for both of you.

Click the image above to read more about leashes, harnesses and dangers associated with them by Dr. Peter Dobias, DVM.

Choosing the Right Harness for a Standard Poodle

Why structure matters—and how to fit it correctly

Not all dogs are built the same, and Standard Poodles have a unique combination of features that make choosing the right harness especially important. From their deep chest and narrow waist to their long neck and curly coat, the wrong harness can interfere with movement, mat the coat, or even create long-term orthopedic issues.

Why Harness Fit Matters for Poodles

Conformation Considerations

Standard Poodles are a well-balanced, square breed with:

• A deep brisket (chest)
• High withers
• Long, arched neck
• Tight tuck-up (waist)
• Level topline and athletic build

Many generic harnesses do not account for this structure. A poorly designed or ill-fitting harness can:

• Rub against the shoulders or elbows, limiting range of motion
• Sit too low or high on the chest, affecting gait or breathing
• Pull unevenly, leading to poor posture over time
• Cause coat breakage or matting under the arms or along the spine

Choosing the Right Harness Style for Your Dog

Look for a harness that offers these features:

• Allows full shoulder extension
• Adjustable at multiple points (neck, chest, girth)
• Keeps pressure off the trachea
• Evenly distributes tension across the chest

⚠️ Avoid:

• “Easy step-in” harnesses – often rub the armpits and restrict leg movement
• Harnesses with horizontal chest straps – can limit reach and alter gait
• Head halters or overly restrictive models for young or sensitive dogs without proper introduction

This Y-style harness allows the dog full range of motion.

This “no-pull” style harness restricts the dog’s range of motion.

This “step-in” style harness restricts the dog’s range of motion.

How to Properly Fit and Use a Harness

Step 1: Adjust for Coat

If your Poodle is in full coat or a longer pet trim, adjust the harness to allow room without slippage. Always remove tangles and brush the coat beneath the straps to avoid matting.

Step 2: Position the Harness

• The front chest strap (in Y-harnesses) should sit above the point of the shoulder and rest along the prosternum—not across the throat.
• The girth strap should lie behind the elbow, not digging into it.
• The neck or shoulder straps should sit snugly but not press into the base of the neck.

If coat compression is creating hot spots or matting, a short sanitary trim beneath the straps may help.

Step 3: Check Fit

• You should be able to slide two fingers between the harness and the dog at all points.
• There should be no gaping or shifting when the dog moves.
• The harness should not restrict the dog’s natural gait at a walk or trot.

Training Tip:

If using a front-clip harness to reduce pulling, be sure to also train loose leash skills. Equipment should assist—not replace—positive reinforcement training.

Ideal Use Scenarios

Harnesses are great for:

• Puppies learning to walk on leash
• Adult dogs with sensitive necks
• Car safety (with a seatbelt tether)
• Active outings like hiking or travel

For show dogs or dogs in coat, rotate between flat collars and harnesses to minimize coat wear.

Harness Fit & Safety Checklist

Use this checklist every time you fit or adjust your puppy’s harness.

Proper Fit

• Two fingers fit snugly under all straps
• Harness does not press on the throat or neck
• Girth strap rests behind the elbows, not on top of them
• Front strap lies flat across the sternum, not the shoulders
• Harness stays centered and balanced—doesn’t twist or shift
• Puppy can move freely at a walk and trot
• Puppy is comfortable being harnessed

Coat & Skin Check

• No matting or tangles under straps
• No rubbing or hair breakage at contact points
• No red spots, irritation, or sores under armpits or chest
• Coat brushed out under harness after each use (especially in longer trims)

Safety Watchouts

• Harness is secure—puppy cannot back out or wiggle free
• No slipping when leash pressure is applied
• Puppy is not trying to bite, roll, or escape the harness
• Puppy shows no signs of stress or fear related to wearing it

Behavioral Green Flags

• Puppy is eager to go for walks and doesn’t avoid the harness
• No sudden changes in stride, posture, or pace when harnessed
• No signs of resistance (balking, stiffening, flattening ears) during harnessing

Tip: Check fit weekly—especially for growing puppies! A harness that fit last month may now be too tight or restrictive.

Choosing the right harness for your Standard Poodle is about more than convenience—it’s about honoring their structure, movement, and comfort. A well-fitted, appropriate harness supports healthy development, protects the coat, and makes daily walks more enjoyable and secure.

Form Follows Function: Understanding the Why Behind the Structure – Part One

As breeders, exhibitors, and performance partners, we spend a lot of time looking at dogs. But how often do we pause to truly see them? Structure isn’t just about stacking a dog or memorizing a standard. It’s about understanding why our breeds are built the way they are. Form follows function—and if we want to breed dogs that move well, work soundly, and live long, healthy lives, we need to understand how form and function connect.

Stephanie Hedgepath’s “Form Follows Function” series in ShowSight Magazine is a masterclass in going beyond the surface. This first article sets the foundation, not by diving right into anatomy, but by reminding us of our responsibility: to preserve breed type and function. As she writes, “You cannot evaluate movement until you understand structure, and you cannot evaluate structure until you understand type.”

Type is more than just a silhouette—it’s the physical expression of a breed’s purpose. Whether retrieving, herding, guarding, or simply moving efficiently, every breed was designed with a job in mind. And when we breed, show, or judge dogs, we should be measuring their structure against that functional blueprint—not chasing trends or exaggerations.

Balance is a word that gets thrown around a lot, but here, it’s clearly defined. A balanced dog is one whose parts—front and rear angles, topline and underline, head and neck—work in harmony. Balance isn’t just aesthetic; it’s essential for endurance and efficiency. An unbalanced dog may still move, but not without wasting energy or straining joints.

As breeders of purpose-bred dogs, this is our charge: to understand our breed’s history, to protect its future, and to evaluate structure not just for the ring, but for the real-life work our dogs were built to do.

This first article lays the philosophical groundwork for the deep-dive that follows. It’s a call to curiosity, humility, and intention. Our dogs deserve nothing less.

Form Follows Function – Part Two: The Canine Skeleton – the Blueprint Beneath the Breed

If form follows function, then the skeleton is the blueprint. In Part Two, Hedgepath takes us beneath the coat and into the foundational framework of every breed: bone. Every dog, regardless of type or size, has the same basic skeletal structure. But it’s the length of the bones and the angles of the joints that create breed-specific silhouettes—and functional differences.

Understanding the canine skeleton is essential to interpreting structure. Long bones (like the humerus and femur) give leverage for movement. Short bones (like those in the carpus and tarsus) absorb shock and provide stability. Flat bones protect vital organs. And all bones serve as attachment points for the muscles and ligaments that move our dogs forward.

Hedgepath explains joint types with clarity: ball-and-socket joints (shoulder and hip) allow rotation, hinge joints (elbow and stifle) provide flexion and extension, and gliding joints (carpus, tarsus) offer limited, shock-absorbing motion. When we understand how these joints function, we can better recognize why certain angulations—too steep, too flat, too long, too short—lead to inefficiencies or even injury.

One of the most important takeaways is the front assembly’s role in weight distribution. Dogs carry about 60% of their body weight on their front end. That means the front structure—scapula, humerus, elbow, pasterns, and feet—must be both shock-absorbing and structurally sound. The angles and proportions here determine reach, impact absorption, and long-term soundness.

This part of the series is a reminder that good structure isn’t cosmetic. It’s the product of precise skeletal architecture. As breeders, when we assess a young puppy or a promising show dog, we should be asking: does this dog have the bone and balance to do the job it was bred for?

Because under every coat—whether curly, wiry, smooth, or double—is a blueprint. The job of a preservation breeder is to understand it, respect it, and protect it.

Form Follows Function – Part Three: Hindquarters, Head, Neck & Spine

In Part Three, Hedgepath shifts focus to the rear—the engine of propulsion—and the spinal column that connects it all. This section reminds us that movement starts in the rear, is stabilized by the spine, and is directed by the head and neck. When these pieces are structurally sound and properly balanced, efficient, effortless movement is possible.

The pelvis is angled to allow powerful thrust from the rear. Ideally, the femur should be of equal length to the pelvis and meet at a 90-degree angle at the hip joint. The lower thigh (tibia and fibula) should equal or exceed the length of the upper thigh to maintain strength and flexibility through the hock. These proportions directly affect drive and follow-through.

Moving forward, the spine is more than a bridge between front and rear. The cervical vertebrae in the neck allow head carriage, flexibility, and shock absorption. The thoracic vertebrae support rib structure and provide the strength behind a well-developed topline. The lumbar and sacral vertebrae, especially where the pelvis anchors to the sacrum, are critical for propulsion. Each section plays a distinct role and should be assessed both visually and through touch.

The head—its shape, proportions, and function—matters just as much. Skull type (mesocephalic, dolichocephalic, or brachycephalic) isn’t just a visual cue. It reflects the breed’s original function, bite mechanics, and sensory needs. Jaw strength, dentition, and proportion between skull and muzzle can indicate a dog’s ability to perform its intended work.

Together, the hindquarters, spine, neck, and head create a functional continuum. They form the support system and steering mechanism for purposeful movement. When breeders understand how these systems interrelate, we’re better equipped to evaluate puppies, assess breeding stock, and advocate for soundness across the lifespan.

The beauty of structure isn’t just in stillness—it’s in the way it powers motion. And that starts from the rear and runs right through to the nose.

Form Follows Function – Part Four: Visual Assessment Techniques

Part Four brings us to the eyes and hands of the breeder and judge: visual assessment. Before we ever touch a dog, we use our trained eyes to evaluate balance, proportion, angulation, and overall harmony. This article breaks down how to look beyond the surface and assess structure in motion and at rest.

Stephanie Hedgepath reminds us that visual assessment is not guesswork; it’s a skill built on understanding anatomy and breed type. She walks us through key visual checkpoints: head set, neck length and carriage, shoulder slope, front and rear angulation, topline, croup, tail set, and foot placement. Each area tells a story about how the dog moves and functions.

Balance is front and center again—whether the dog’s front matches its rear in angulation and length. Is the topline level or does it dip? Does the dog move smoothly with a natural stride, or is there stiffness or awkwardness? The article also encourages breeders to watch dogs from multiple angles, noting how structure translates into real-world movement.

This step is critical before the hands-on exam. Visual cues guide where to focus palpation and what questions to ask about a dog’s soundness and potential. For preservation breeders like us, learning to read these visual signs early means better selection and stronger breeding decisions.

In your program, combine these visual checkpoints with your knowledge of breed history and function. This way, you’re not just seeing a pretty dog—you’re seeing a working athlete built for purpose.

Form Follows Function – Part Five: Hands-On Exam of the Front Assembly

Building on visual assessment, Part Five dives into the tactile side of structure evaluation—palpating the front assembly. The front end carries about 60% of a dog’s weight, so understanding what you feel under the coat is crucial for assessing soundness and function.

Stephanie Hedgepath guides us through feeling the scapula’s position and angle, the length and layback of the shoulder blade, and the upper arm’s length and attachment. These elements shape reach and shock absorption. Palpating the elbow joint reveals flexion and extension, as well as any signs of stress or arthritis.

You’ll learn to trace the foreleg down to the pasterns and feet, noting angulation and stability. The article stresses the importance of feeling for muscle tone, ligament integrity, and joint alignment to detect faults that may not be obvious visually.

For breeders focused on preservation, this hands-on work complements what you see in the stack and in movement. It helps you confirm or question your visual impressions and ensures you’re selecting dogs with sound, functional front ends.

Mastering front assembly palpation builds a foundation for the rear and full-body exams coming up next. With this skill, you’re better equipped to protect and promote the structure that supports healthy, balanced movement.

Form Follows Function – Part Six: Hands-On Exam of Chest, Topline, and Hindquarters

In this final hands-on chapter, Stephanie Hedgepath walks us through palpating the chest, topline, and rear assembly—key areas that influence strength, balance, and propulsion.

Start by feeling the rib spring, checking the curve and depth of the ribs from both sides. An ideal ribcage supports efficient breathing and endurance without being slab-sided or barrel-shaped. Next, move your hands along the spine from the withers through the thoracic and lumbar vertebrae, assessing muscle development and spinal alignment. A strong, smooth topline is essential for a sound, athletic dog.

Then focus on the croup and tailset by palpating the sacrum and pelvis. The pelvis should be well-angled to allow powerful rear drive. Feel the loin length and the ischial tuberosities (“pin bones”) to evaluate rear balance and strength. This tactile examination complements the visual assessment of rear angulation and tail carriage.

Together, these structures form the foundation for propulsion and balance in movement. As a preservation breeder, mastering this palpation helps you select dogs with the physical tools needed for longevity and function.

With Parts Five and Six complete, you’ve gained a full toolkit for evaluating structure by both sight and touch. The next step is applying this knowledge to movement and gait analysis—seeing form truly follow function in action.

Form Follows Function – Toes Up: The Foundation Beneath Every Step

Often overlooked, a dog’s feet and toes are the literal foundation of movement. Healthy, well-structured toes provide support, traction, and shock absorption—key factors in soundness and athleticism.

Dogs typically walk on four main toes per foot, each with three small bones that allow flexibility and grip. The dewclaws—vestigial fifth toes—vary by breed and function. Front dewclaws are often firmly attached to bone and help with stability; rear dewclaws may be looser and sometimes removed if they pose a risk.

Pads cushion each toe and the foot’s underside, made of dense connective tissue and fat covered by thick, protective skin. These pads absorb impact and help dogs adapt to varying terrain, whether slick floors or rugged trails.

Toenails also play a role in traction and balance. Keeping nails trimmed and healthy helps maintain proper foot positioning and prevents discomfort or gait alteration.

When evaluating structure, don’t forget to examine toes and feet by sight and touch. Look for symmetry, proper alignment, healthy pads, and secure dewclaws. Well-formed feet contribute to efficient, effortless movement—just as form should always follow function.

Form Follows Function: Questions Asked on Social Media

Dog Show Etiquette Cheat Sheet

Ring & Prep Area Etiquette

Be Ready & On Time – Arrive early and be at ringside before your class.

Keep It Clean – Pick up after your dog and yourself. Crates, grooming areas, and aisles should be tidy.

Respect the Stack – Don’t interrupt dogs being stacked or in training. Wait your turn.

Stay Alert – Know your armband number, class order, and listen for calls. Pay attention to the ring steward and/or judge’s instructions.

Respecting Handlers & Dogs

Ask Before Touching – Always ask before petting someone’s dog or entering grooming space.

Keep Distance – Don’t crowd other dogs in the ring or ring entrance. Not all dogs are social.

Celebrate Quietly – Be happy, but don’t gloat. Show grace in both winning and losing.

What Not to Do

Don’t coach from the sidelines during judging.

Don’t gossip, compare, or criticize others—especially juniors.

Don’t distract dogs in the ring (no squeaking toys or sudden movements).

Don’t correct or scold others’ dogs or children—bring concerns to a mentor or show official.

Social Etiquette

Use Kind Words – Compliment dogs and handlers sincerely.

Support, Don’t Undermine – Encourage, don’t compare.

🚶‍♀️‍➡️Avoid Drama – If there’s conflict, talk privately or walk away.

Don’t engage publicly.

Best Practices for a Great Experience

Thank judges, ring stewards, and club volunteers.

Offer to help juniors or new folks if you see them struggling.

Bring extras—water, slip leads, poop bags, snacks—and share if needed.

Focus on your dog and your growth. Every show is a learning opportunity.

Breeding dogs is often compared to baking—carefully measured ingredients, a trusted recipe, and a dash of heart. But here’s the truth: there’s no single recipe for producing the perfect specimen of any breed, no matter how well you follow the standard. The reality is far more nuanced. Ethical breeding isn’t a one-size-fits-all checklist—it’s a thoughtful, complex process that requires knowledge, patience, and a deep understanding of the dogs involved.

🧬 A Moving Target: The Breed Standard

Every breed has a published standard, but even that is open to interpretation. Two breeders can study the same document and walk away with different visions. Why? Because type, balance, and expression don’t exist in a vacuum—they come alive in each individual dog. And no two dogs, even from the same litter, are exactly alike.

So how can there be a single formula for producing the “ideal”? Spoiler: there isn’t.

🧩 Breeding is About Weighing the Whole Dog

Every potential pairing is a puzzle. A breeder must evaluate each dog’s type, structure, temperament, health, movement, and overall contribution to the breed. What strengths will the sire pass on? What weaknesses must the dam offset—and vice versa?

A dog with a gorgeous head might lack rear angulation. Another might be built like a dream but lack front fill. Do their pedigrees show consistency in the traits you want to preserve? Are their temperaments complementary? Do they both exemplify your interpretation of the breed standard—or does one fill in where the other leaves off?

This is where the art of breeding comes in. You don’t just look at the pieces—you envision the whole.

🧪 Tools of the Trade: Science + Experience

While instinct and experience are critical, responsible breeders also use every tool available to inform their choices:

• Pedigree Research: Know the family behind the dog. Patterns of strengths and weaknesses often show up in extended lines.
• Genetic Diversity Tools: Tools like the Canine Genetic Diversity Test help reduce the risk of inherited diseases and inbreeding depression.
• COI (Coefficient of Inbreeding) & AVK (Ancestor Loss Coefficient): Use these to assess genetic variation and make smart pairing decisions.
• Health Testing: Go beyond the basics. Know what your breed is predisposed to and test accordingly.

None of these tools offer guarantees—but together, they improve your odds of producing healthy, balanced dogs that honor the breed.

⏳ Long Game Breeding: Not All Faults Are Created Equal

Some structural faults are easier to improve than others. Topline inconsistencies, weak pasterns, and short upper arms may take multiple generations to correct (specific to the breed). Breeding is not just about this litter—it’s about where you want to be three generations from now. That means staying committed for the long haul and making decisions that move your program forward with integrity.

🚫 Pet-Only Breeding Isn’t Preservation

It’s important to acknowledge the difference between ethical breeding and breeding for profit. Breeders who are simply producing puppies to sell as “pets” are not working to improve the breed or preserve its future. They are breeding for a paycheck—not for the betterment of their lines or the health and soundness of future generations. There’s no long-term vision, no plan to move the needle forward—only a short-term goal of filling a demand.

🤝 Call to Action: Connect, Learn, Grow

If you’re a newer breeder, know this: you don’t have to go it alone. Talk to people. Seek out formal or informal mentors. Learn how they evaluate potential pairings and how they interpret the standard. Add those insights to your toolbox and weigh them carefully against your own observations.

Every generation is a chance to improve. Let your decisions reflect that responsibility—and that passion.

Because in the end, breeding isn’t about following a recipe.
It’s about honoring the breed—and building something worth preserving.

✅ Additional Considerations When Pairing Dogs:

1. Temperament Compatibility & Predictability
Even if both dogs have stable temperaments, how they express it matters. Will their combined temperaments complement each other? Do they both have biddable, confident, recovery-minded personalities? Will their offspring be suitable for your performance, conformation, service, or family goals?

2. Size Compatibility
Beyond just general height/weight:

• Are both dogs within the ideal size range for the breed standard?
• Will combining these dogs potentially lead to undersized or oversized offspring?
• Are you prepared to track how an outsized pairing affects proportion and balance?

3. Fertility & Reproductive History

• Has either dog struggled to conceive or produce viable litters?
• Do either have difficulty whelping or nursing?
• Are they proven or unproven? (and how do you plan accordingly?)

4. Longevity in the Line

• Are close relatives long-lived?
• Have they aged gracefully, or did they show early signs of joint, heart, or organ issues?

5. Orthopedic Health & Soundness

• Are there any red flags regarding joint laxity, ligament strength, or recurring injury risk in the pedigree?
• Have you considered gait and joint congruity when watching both dogs move?

6. Bite & Dentition

• Are both dogs full-mouthed?
• Are there minor bite faults that could intensify if paired?
• Are undershot, overshot, or base-narrow jaws in the lineage?

7. Coat Quality & Grooming Maintenance

Consider coat texture, density, and color genetics.

• Are you doubling up on hard-to-manage coat types or mismatched textures?
• Are the coats of the pair likely to produce uniform or unpredictable offspring?

8. Color Genetics & Recessive Traits

• Are you breeding with a strong understanding of color inheritance (especially in poodles)?
• Are you aware of hidden recessives or dilute genes that may be lurking?

9. Titles & Accomplishments

• Do both dogs have accomplishments in the ring or performance that demonstrate their structure, drive, or temperament in real-world scenarios?
• If one dog is unproven in this regard, are they bringing something irreplaceable to the table (i.e. pedigree, health, structure)?

10. Outcross vs. Linebreeding Strategy

• Are you intentionally doubling up on specific ancestors? If so, why?
• Are you using an outcross to improve vigor or correct a fault?
• Do you understand the long-term implications of this pairing within your line?

11. Breeder’s Long-Term Goals

• Does this litter contribute to your program or just produce a litter?
• Are you willing to keep and continue to assess multiple pups if the results aren’t clear at 8 weeks?
• What will this litter tell you about where your line is going?

12. Ethical Considerations & Responsibility

• Will you stand behind the puppies long term?
• Are you prepared to keep or rehome any puppies that do not meet expectations or cannot be placed?

🧬 How UC Davis and BetterBred Map DNA – And What It Actually Means

This is a follow-up to my post on Understanding Canine Genetic Diversity Research.

When we talk about “mapping DNA” in canine genetic diversity testing, what we’re referring to is the process of analyzing specific markers across the genome to measure diversity and breed relationships. UC Davis, through its Canine Genetic Diversity Project, and BetterBred, a partner platform, use a specific kind of DNA testing known as Short Tandem Repeat (STR) genotyping.

What Are STR Markers?

STRs are regions in DNA where short sequences of base pairs repeat. These regions are highly variable from one dog to another, making them perfect for measuring genetic diversity.

UC Davis tests:

• 33 autosomal STR loci (the main body chromosomes)

• 7 DLA (Dog Leukocyte Antigen) loci (important for immune system function)

This test is used across all breeds, allowing both within-breed and cross-breed comparisons.

🧪 How Much of the Dog’s DNA Is This?

Let’s put it into perspective:

• The entire dog genome has around 2.5 billion base pairs.

• The STR-based test covers just a tiny fraction of that—a few hundred to a few thousand base pairs total.

• So, the sample represents much less than 0.0001% of the dog’s entire genome.

But even this small slice can tell us a huge amount about diversity, population structure, and relatedness—think of it as using fingerprints rather than full body scans.

BetterBred and Risky Haplotypes:

BetterBred uses data from UC Davis’s canine genetic diversity study to analyze haplotypes—clusters of genes inherited together. These clusters can give breeders insight into how genetically diverse or similar a dog is, especially across the DLA (Dog Leukocyte Antigen) region, which is part of the immune system.

Here’s how it works:

• Each haplotype is labeled as common, uncommon, or rare within the breed’s established database.

• BetterBred identifies “risky” matings when a sire and dam share identical or highly similar haplotypes, especially in both DLA Class I and II. Too much similarity here can increase the risk of autoimmune issues and reduce overall immune diversity in offspring.

• Risky haplotypes may also reflect limited ancestral diversity, meaning the pair may have a greater chance of producing genetically bottlenecked litters with less long-term resilience.

Breeding with diverse but compatible dogs helps maintain health, fertility, and longevity in the breed.

🎯 Why It Matters to Breeders

This kind of testing does not predict health outcomes, but it does help breeders:

• Avoid excessive inbreeding.

• Preserve rare alleles that might otherwise be lost.

• Make informed pairings that improve the genetic health and longevity of the breed.

For SPFL, it means we can maintain the classic structure, temperament, and function of the Standard Poodle while also keeping an eye on preserving the genetic richness that makes the breed sustainable for generations to come.

Why Adding Intervariety-Bred Poodles is Problematic for the Standard Poodle Database:

The Standard Poodle has a distinct genetic fingerprint developed over decades. The addition of Miniature (or Toy) poodles—who have different historical breeding selections and sometimes unrelated health concerns—can introduce genetic noise that skews the data.

Key issues:

• Distorted Diversity Metrics: Including dogs from other varieties inflates perceived diversity in the Standard Poodle gene pool. It may look like we have more unique haplotypes or better outcross potential than truly exists.

• False Security in Matchmaking: A breeder could unintentionally match two dogs thinking they are genetically diverse, when in fact that diversity comes from incompatible intervariety outcrosses that don’t reflect the historical standard poodle population.

• Health Risk Confusion: Intervariety dogs may carry different mutation frequencies or traits not typical in standard lines, complicating interpretation of results and breeding decisions.

You can think of it like trying to measure the nutritional diversity of apples… but someone added pears to the study. It may still look “diverse,” but it’s no longer accurate to what apple growers need to know.

Cause for Concern?

💢 1. Inflated Genetic Diversity Metrics

Intervariety poodles (those with Miniature or Toy ancestry) introduce haplotypes not native to the Standard Poodle population. These “new” haplotypes may be labeled rare or unique, giving the false impression that the breed has more diversity than it actually does.

➡️ Why it matters: Standard breeders might feel encouraged to breed two dogs based on seemingly diverse genetics, when in reality that diversity was artificially introduced from another variety—not historically present in Standard lines.

🧬 2. Misleading Outcross Potential

When evaluating potential pairings, BetterBred’s tools try to identify the best matches to increase genetic diversity. But if the database includes dogs with intervariety ancestry, it can recommend outcrosses that are not actually appropriate for Standards.

➡️ Result: Breeders aiming for thoughtful preservation may end up compromising structure, temperament, or health consistency by unknowingly introducing Miniature traits.

🧪 3. Diluted Breed-Specific Data

Standard Poodles have unique breed-related trends in autoimmune risks, DLA haplotype frequencies, and genetic bottlenecks. Mixing in intervariety data confuses these patterns, making it harder to:

• • Identify which DLA combinations are truly rare or risky in Standards

  • Understand real diversity within the Standard population

  • Make informed breeding decisions based on Standard-specific history

🐩 4. Undermines Preservation Goals

Preservation breeding isn’t just about health—it’s about maintaining the distinct identity of the Standard Poodle: their size, structure, coat, temperament, and working aptitude.

➡️ Including intervariety dogs in the database erodes the historical record of Standard Poodle genetics and confuses efforts to maintain the breed’s integrity.

Summary

“As a preservation breeder, I believe that intervariety breeding introduces traits, haplotypes, and potential health risks not representative of the true Standard Poodle gene pool. Including these dogs in diversity databases may distort the data, mislead breeding choices, and ultimately undermine efforts to preserve the breed as it was intended.”

🐩 Why Genetic Diversity Matters for Standard Poodles

Preserving the Standard Poodle means more than producing pretty dogs with correct coat and adorable faces. At SPFL, we believe every litter starts with a purpose: to honor the breed’s history while safeguarding its future through health, structure, temperament, and vitality.

Thanks to advances in canine genetic research, ethical breeders now have powerful tools to guide smarter decisions—tools that help reduce inherited disease, extend longevity, and preserve the poodle’s purpose for generations to come.

🔬 What Is Genetic Diversity in Dogs?

Genetic diversity refers to the variety of genetic material present within a breed or population. In simple terms, it’s a measure of how genetically similar or different dogs are from one another.

Why does this matter? Low diversity, caused by inbreeding or genetic bottlenecks, can lead to:

• Weakened immune systems

• Increased risk for disease

• Reduced fertility or litter viability

• Shortened lifespan

Preservation breeders work hard to reduce these risks by balancing structure and type with genetic diversity.

📊 Pedigree COI vs. DNA-Based Diversity Testing

For decades, breeders have relied on the Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI)—a pedigree-based calculation of how closely related two dogs are.

But COI is only an estimate.

That’s where DNA-based diversity testing comes in. Tools like the UC Davis Veterinary Genetics Laboratory (VGL) Canine Diversity Test and BetterBred’s analysis measure the actual genes a dog inherited, offering deeper insight than pedigrees alone. These tests assess:

• Immune system diversity (DLA haplotypes)

• Genomic inbreeding

• Genetic compatibility between mates

📍 At SPFL, we’ve been using this DNA-based testing since 2018 to make informed, thoughtful breeding decisions.

📈 What Is AVK and Why Does It Matter?

If you’ve explored the Poodle Pedigree Database (based in Germany), you may have seen something called AVK — short for Ahnenverlustkoeffizient, or ancestor loss coefficient.

AVK measures how many unique ancestors appear in a dog’s pedigree. A higher AVK (closer to 100%) means greater pedigree variety, which typically reflects lower inbreeding. For example:

• AVK of 100% = All ancestors in the pedigree are unique.

• AVK of 87.5% = One or more ancestors appear more than once.

AVK doesn’t replace DNA testing—but it does give us a big-picture view of pedigree diversity. Used together, AVK and genomic analysis help breeders strike the balance between breed type and breed health.

🧠 SPFL’s Genetic Testing Philosophy

At Standard Poodles of Forest Lakes, we use multiple tools to support our mission:

• CHIC Certification through OFA (hips, eyes, heart, thyroid)

• DNA disease panel (over 200 tests, including PRA, DM, vWD, NEwS, rcd4, etc.)

• DLA diversity and inbreeding analysis via VGL + BetterBred

• Pedigree analysis and AVK metrics

These tools help us make intentional breeding choices—with each pairing carefully designed to reduce risk, maintain soundness, and preserve the Standard Poodle’s remarkable versatility.

🐾 We’re not just breeding for one great dog—we’re building for a healthier future.

🚫 Why We Do Not Support Intervariety Breeding

At SPFL, we are committed to preserving the integrity of the Standard Poodle as its own variety. While all three sizes of poodles—Toy, Miniature, and Standard—share a common origin, they have diverged significantly over time in terms of structure, temperament, and purpose.

We do not support intervariety breeding (e.g., Miniature to Standard) because:

• It introduces inconsistencies in size, structure, and temperament.

• It can disrupt health tracking, as diseases expressed in one variety may not appear the same way in another.

• It compromises the breed type and purpose that careful preservation breeders have worked to maintain.

Our goal is to honor the Standard Poodle’s legacy by breeding within variety—focusing on genetic diversity within the standard population, not across size types.

💬 What This Means for Future Puppy Families

You don’t have to be a geneticist to appreciate the value of a well-bred poodle. But we believe in full transparency.

As an SPFL puppy buyer, you’ll receive:

• Clear explanations of your puppy’s pedigree and health background

• Access to CHIC numbers, AVK stats, and DNA health reports

• Support, education, and guidance for the lifetime of your poodle

We’re proud to invest in science-backed breeding practices that protect the breed we love—and give your future companion the healthiest start possible.

🔗 Learn More

Here are some trusted resources we use and recommend:

• 🔬 UC Davis Canine Genetic Diversity Testing

• 🧪 BetterBred: Canine Diversity Reports

• 📚 Poodle Pedigree Database (Germany)

• 🏆 OFA CHIC Certification for Poodles

• 💡 Poodle Club of America Health Testing Recommendations

📸 Want to see how we pair this science with sweet puppy faces?

Follow us on Facebook or browse our Health & Testing page to see real-world examples of how these tools help us raise poodles that are smart, sound, and stunning.

Questions? Comments? We’d love to hear from fellow breeders, future puppy families, or poodle lovers who want to learn more. Drop a comment below or contact us directly.

Standard Poodles are cherished for their intelligence, elegance, and hypoallergenic coats. However, like many breeds, they can be predisposed to allergies, which may lead to chronic ear infections and other health challenges. Understanding the types of allergies, available testing methods, their impact on ear health, and effective prevention and management strategies is crucial for maintaining the well-being of these dogs.

Source: https://healthyandhappydog.com/allergies/

Understanding Allergies in Standard Poodles

Allergies in dogs are typically categorized into three main types:

1. Environmental Allergies (Atopy): Reactions to airborne substances such as pollen, dust mites, and molds. (Merck Veterinary Manual)
2. Food Allergies: Adverse reactions to specific dietary components. (AVMA Journals) (Holistic Vet Blend)
3. Flea Allergy Dermatitis: Hypersensitivity to flea bites. (AKC) (Frontiers)

Standard Poodles may be susceptible to any of these, with environmental and food allergies being particularly common. (Merck Veterinary Manual)  (Animal Friends Dermatology)

Allergy Testing Options

Accurate identification of allergens is essential for effective management. The primary diagnostic tools include (AKC):

• Glacier Peak Pet Intolerance Test: Used biofeedback technology to analyze hair and saliva samples to evaluate over 300 food and environmental factors to pinpoint stressors. (holirawnutrition)
• Intradermal Skin Testing (IDST): Considered the gold standard for detecting environmental allergens, this test involves injecting small amounts of potential allergens into the skin and observing reactions.
• Radioallergosorbent Test (RAST): A blood test that measures the presence of allergen-specific IgE antibodies, useful for identifying environmental allergies.
• Elimination Diet Trials: The definitive method for diagnosing food allergies, involves feeding a hypoallergenic diet exclusively for 8 to 12 weeks and monitoring for symptom resolution. (VCA)

So Many Choices….Which test should I use?

When evaluating allergy testing methods for dogs, it’s essential to consider their accuracy, reliability, and the scientific evidence supporting each. The primary methods include Intradermal Skin Testing (IDST), Serum Allergen-Specific IgE Testing (RAST), and alternative assessments like the Glacier Peak Pet Intolerance Test.

Intradermal Skin Testing (IDST):

IDST is often considered the gold standard for diagnosing environmental allergies in dogs. It involves injecting small amounts of allergens into the skin and observing reactions. The accuracy is generally estimated to be around 70%, meaning it correctly identifies allergens in approximately 70% of cases. However, factors such as medications, skin conditions, and stress can influence results.

Serum Allergen-Specific IgE Testing (RAST):

RAST detects allergen-specific IgE antibodies in the dog’s blood. Its accuracy varies, with some studies suggesting it also falls around 70%. However, other research indicates that RAST may have a lower sensitivity compared to IDST, potentially producing more false negatives but fewer false positives. RAST is less invasive and doesn’t require discontinuation of medications, making it more convenient in certain scenarios.

Glacier Peak Pet Intolerance Test:

This test utilizes biofeedback technology to analyze hair and saliva samples, aiming to identify intolerances and sensitivities to over 300 food and environmental factors. It’s important to note that this method differs significantly from traditional veterinary allergy tests. The scientific validity and reliability of biofeedback-based assessments in diagnosing pet allergies or intolerances have not been extensively documented in peer-reviewed veterinary literature. Some veterinary professionals have expressed skepticism regarding the accuracy of such tests. For instance, a study published in Veterinary Dermatology concluded that a similar test “lacks precision, accuracy and repeatability and should not be used in the diagnosis or treatment of allergic conditions in companion animals.” (VIN News Service)

Comparison and Considerations:

The margin of error between these tests can be influenced by various factors, including the specific allergens tested, the dog’s condition, and environmental variables. While IDST and RAST have established scientific backing and are commonly used in veterinary practice, alternative methods like the Glacier Peak Pet Intolerance Test lack robust scientific validation. Therefore, it’s crucial to consult with a licensed veterinarian to determine the most appropriate testing method and to develop an effective management plan for a dog’s allergies.

Impact of Allergies on Ear Health

Allergies often manifest in the skin and ears of dogs. Inflammation caused by allergic reactions can lead to otitis externa, a common ear infection. Studies indicate that allergies contribute to ear infections in up to 43% of cases, and 65-80% of dogs with food allergies develop ear infections.

Preventing Allergies Through Early Dietary Interventions

Emerging research suggests that early dietary choices may influence the development of allergies:

• Raw Diets in Puppies: A study from the University of Helsinki found that puppies fed raw tripe, organ meats, and human meal leftovers had a significantly lower incidence of allergy and atopy-related skin symptoms in adulthood. (University of Helsinki)  (ScienceDaily)
• Dietary Diversity: Introducing a variety of fresh, less-processed foods during puppyhood may promote a healthier immune system and reduce allergy risks.  (ScienceDaily)

Managing Allergies and Chronic Ear Infections in Adult Poodles

Effective management strategies include:

• Regular Ear Care: Routine cleaning and monitoring of the ears help prevent infections, especially in breeds like Poodles with hair-filled ear canals (McDowell’s Herbal). Options like Zymox or Garlic Mullein Oil can soothe inflamed ears and provide antimicrobial benefits.
• Medications: Anti-inflammatory treatments, such as corticosteroids, can alleviate severe allergic reactions. (Middlesex Vet Center)
• Allergen-Specific Immunotherapy (ASIT): Custom-formulated allergy shots or drops can desensitize dogs to specific allergens over time. (VCA)
• Dietary Management: Implementing elimination diets to identify and avoid food allergens is crucial. (VCA)
• Environmental Control: Minimizing exposure to known environmental allergens can reduce symptom severity.

Collaborating with a veterinarian to develop a tailored plan is essential for effectively managing allergies and associated ear infections in Standard Poodles.

All in All

Allergies in Standard Poodles can significantly impact their quality of life, particularly when leading to chronic ear infections. Through early dietary interventions, vigilant monitoring, and comprehensive management strategies, owners can help prevent and mitigate these issues, ensuring their Poodles lead comfortable and healthy lives.

And here is how I resolved chronic ear infections on two of our poodles:

• Regular Ear Care: Routine cleaning and monitoring of the ears help prevent infections, especially in breeds like Poodles with hair-filled ear canals. Options like Zymox or Garlic Mullein Oil can soothe inflamed ears and provide antimicrobial benefits.
• Active Infection Care: For chronic ear infections, I used a flushing device daily to remove all of the brown/black goo from the ear. I filled the device with a cleaning solution cut with isopropyl alcohol. Once the ear was clean, I applied Garlic Mullein Oil daily. Within 10 days, all irritation was gone. I then reduced the Garlic Mullein Oil application to once a week, and the infections did not return.
  • Because the dogs have thick hair, even in their ears, I pluck to promote air flow, but do not remove every bit of hair. After removing ear hair, I use Zymox with hydrocortisone to reduce inflammation. Zymox offers other formulations if your dog cannot tolerate hydrocortisone.